Linguine Vongole

Coat a large saute pan with olive oil and add half the garlic cloves. Bring the pan to medium-high heat and cook until the garlic becomes golden brown and very aromatic. Remove and discard the garlic.

Add 3½ dozen clams to the pan with the wine and 1/2 cup of water. Cover and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook until the clams open, about 10 minutes.

Remove the clams from the pan and reduce the cooking liquid. Let the clams cool slightly, then remove them from the shells and reserve. Discard the shells. Pour the cooking liquid into a measuring cup.

Bring a large pot of well salted water to a boil over medium heat.

Coat the same saute pan again with olive oil and add the remaining garlic cloves and a large pinch of crushed red pepper flakes. Bring to medium-high heat and cook until the garlic becomes golden brown and very aromatic. Remove and discard the garlic.

Add the remaining raw clams and reserved clam cooking liquid to the pan. When adding the reserved liquid, check for sand and grit in the bottom - it's better to lose the last couple tablespoons than have sand in your pasta. Cover and cook until the clams open.

While the clams are cooking, drop the linguine into the salted boiling water and cook until very al dente, maybe a minute or so less than the box directs.

Remove the cooked clams in their shells from the pan and keep warm. Add the butter and cooked clams that have been removed from their shells back to the pan.

Bring the liquid to a boil and toss in the cooked pasta and the herbs. Cook the pasta together with the sauce until the sauce clings to the pasta.

Turn off the heat and toss in the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, if using, and finish with a drizzle of big fat finishing oil. Toss or stir vigorously to combine.

Divide the pasta into serving dishes and garnish with the clams that are still in their shells and a little more shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano, if desired.